Travel reports from the Nisyros expeditions

Nisyros is one of the most fascinating active volcanoes in Greece, a place where you can literally get close to boiling mud pools and steaming fumaroles – a rare experience even in volcanic regions. Despite its volcanic nature, the island is remarkably green and full of life, with a unique combination of dramatic geology and lush Mediterranean vegetation.

In April 2008, our small travel group had the opportunity to explore this extraordinary island in depth. Each day offered a new hiking adventure through the volcanic landscape, where nature, history, and local culture blend in a truly special way.

Our first walk took us around the surroundings of the main town Mandraki, with its whitewashed houses, small chapels, and the impressive ancient acropolis of Paliokastro, one of the best-preserved fortifications in the Dodecanese. We also discovered several old churches, silent witnesses of Nisyros’ long Christian tradition.

A real highlight was the descent into the caldera, where the youngest craters – Stefanos and Polyvotis – lie at the heart of the island. Down there, we came remarkably close to hot, sulfurous fumaroles and bubbling mud pits. The vivid colors, the rising steam, and the smell of sulfur created a surreal landscape – a paradise for photographers, geologists, and nature lovers alike!

Another day’s hike took us up to the charming mountain village of Nikia, perched on the edge of the caldera. Today, it is home to the Volcano Museum of Nisyros, but even back in 2008 we were lucky enough to get a sneak preview of its exhibits. That tour turned into an almost complete circuit of the island, offering endless views over the sea and the rugged volcanic terrain.

One of our most memorable excursions was the ascent to the highest point of the island – the so-called “Hanging Garden of Diavatis” and the summit of Profitis Ilias. Though demanding, the climb rewarded us with spectacular panoramas over the caldera, the surrounding islands, and even as far as Kos on the horizon.

All in all, it was a series of unforgettable days on Nisyros – full of adventure, discovery, and natural beauty. Time seemed to pass far too quickly on this small volcanic gem in the Aegean Sea.

Our first day on Nisyros was dedicated to exploring the surroundings of the island’s main town, Mandraki. We began with a leisurely coastal hike leading to the ancient thermal baths of Nisyros, which were already famous in antiquity for their warm, sulfur-rich springs. Even today, the scattered ruins and unique rock formations bear witness to the powerful volcanic forces still at work deep beneath the island.

In the afternoon, our path led us uphill to the ancient acropolis of Paliokastro, one of the most impressive fortresses in the entire Dodecanese archipelago. The massive basalt walls, constructed from dark volcanic rock and being carefully restored at the time of our visit, left us in awe – a masterpiece of ancient engineering and a spectacular viewpoint overlooking Mandraki and the Aegean Sea.

To round off the day, we made a detour to Kochlaki Beach, a unique destination for geology enthusiasts and nature lovers. The shoreline is formed by ancient pillow lavas, created when molten lava met seawater thousands of years ago. Even today, acidic gases still escape in some areas, oxidizing the rocks and tinting them in extraordinary shades of red, ochre, and violet. Especially at sunset, the warm light transformed the cliffs and the sea into a magical play of colors – the perfect ending to an unforgettable first day on Nisyros.

On our second day on Nisyros, we experienced one of the most impressive hikes of the entire journey – the descent into the caldera, a vast, bowl-shaped depression formed by volcanic activity at the heart of the island. Starting from Mandraki, our trail first passed the Evangelistria Church, its white walls gleaming in the morning sun. We then continued through wide volcanic valleys, where the rocks shimmered in countless shades of red, yellow, and black – a striking testament to the powerful forces that shaped this island.

Our first major destination was the famous Stefanos Crater, formed around 1886 during massive phreatic (steam-driven) explosions. Even before reaching it, the smell of sulfur filled the air. Inside the crater, we witnessed boiling mud pools, bubbling springs, and fumaroles – hot vents releasing sulfurous gases from the earth’s crust. It was an unforgettable spectacle of nature’s raw power and beauty – but also a place that commands caution and respect.

Further up on the slopes, we reached the Polyvotis Crater, which exudes a mysterious, almost eerie atmosphere. The rock walls are deeply fractured, and the ground feels warm and brittle underfoot. As an experienced volcano guide, I never linger here long with my groups – especially not when the air is still, since volcanic gases can accumulate and pose a risk of suffocation. Even though hundreds of tourists enter the Stefanos Crater every day, it remains a potentially active volcanic site, one that must always be approached with awareness and humility.

On our return, we passed the small Monastery of Stavros, perched on a hill overlooking the caldera – a peaceful contrast to the dramatic landscapes below. From there, we made our way back to Mandraki, where we ended the day with a cool drink by the harbor, filled with impressions of one of the most active and fascinating volcanoes in Greece.

Even on a Greek island, the weather can sometimes change unexpectedly. On this day, as wind and clouds drifted over Nisyros, we took the opportunity to explore Mandraki and its cultural treasures in greater depth.

One of the highlights was our visit to the Monastery Museum of Panagia Spiliani, dramatically located in a rock cave above the town, overlooking the Aegean Sea. The small but fascinating museum houses a remarkable collection of religious and folk artifacts, including precious icons, beautifully embroidered priestly vestments, altar cloths, and a variety of traditional tools and household objects that offer a glimpse into the island’s past and the daily lives of its people.

The monastery itself is considered one of the spiritual landmarks of Nisyros. The ascent through the arched gateway up the rock is impressive, and at the top, visitors are rewarded with panoramic views over the harbor of Mandraki, the deep blue sea, and the neighboring island of Kos. Although the day was accompanied by rain, it provided a perfect pause between our volcanic hikes and offered a fascinating insight into the religious and cultural heritage of this remarkable island.

One of our most beautiful yet most demanding hikes on Nisyros led us to the summit of the lava dome Profitis Ilias – the highest point on the island. The trail began in the main town of Mandraki, and even the first climb up to the small Evangelistria Chapel required a well-earned rest. From there, a narrow path followed the edge of the caldera, winding steadily upward – a route that demands stamina and sure-footedness, but rewards every step with unforgettable panoramic views.

About one and a half hours after passing the Evangelistria Chapel, we reached the impressive crater valley known as the “Hanging Garden of Diavatis.” This mystical place unites nature, history, and silence. Amidst the wide rocky landscape stands a small stone hut and the picturesque Panagia Chapel, believed to have been built on ancient foundations.

Here we took a well-deserved break. On tours like this, I often bring Souvlaki or pork chops to grill – they taste twice as good in such breathtaking surroundings. I have even spent the night up here with friends, sleeping under the open sky with a sleeping bag and mat beneath the glittering stars of Nisyros – a small adventure one never forgets.

With our group, we continued the ascent to the Chapel of the Prophet Elias (Profitis Ilias), perched on the very top of the lava dome. Nearby lies a smaller crater, geologically connected to the island’s main caldera. The view from the summit is simply awe-inspiring: far below lies the vast crater valley, the Aegean Sea glimmers to the north, and on the horizon one can clearly see the neighboring island of Kos.

At times, clouds drift across the peak, wrapping the landscape in an almost mystical atmosphere – moments when you can truly feel the power, silence, and living energy of this volcano.

On the last day of our journey on Nisyros, we had planned what was supposed to be just a “short” hike from Mandraki up to Nikia. However, since our group turned out to be exceptionally fit and enthusiastic, it soon became a complete circuit hike around the island – a fitting finale to an unforgettable volcanic week.

The sky was lightly overcast that morning, providing pleasant temperatures and ideal conditions for hiking. With softer sunlight, there were fewer photo stops and more moments to simply enjoy the quiet rhythm of the landscape. Our route led us through ancient terraced fields, where the small stone shelters of farmers – the so-called Spiladia – still stand. These traditional huts once offered protection from the sun and wind during long days of fieldwork and now remain as silent witnesses to the island’s rural past.

Gradually, the path ascended toward the picturesque village of Nikia, perched dramatically on the rim of the caldera. Its white marble-paved main square is among the most beautiful in the entire Aegean. From here, the panoramic view into the caldera and far out over the deep blue sea is simply breathtaking. The excellent Volcano Museum of Nikia was unfortunately still closed at the time, but even without it, the whole village felt like an open-air museum, with its narrow alleys, traditional houses, and tranquil, almost meditative atmosphere.

Since we still had energy left, we decided to continue walking back to Mandraki along the quiet, scenic road. Below the mountain village of Emporio, we passed the small harbor of Pali, home to the island’s historic thermal baths, long renowned for their mineral-rich springs. Along the way, we enjoyed sweeping views over oak groves, olive trees, and the surrounding islands – Kos, Yali, and Strongyli – shimmering in the hazy afternoon light.

That evening, we returned for the last time to Ilikiomeni Square in Mandraki, one of the most charming squares in the Aegean, lined with traditional tavernas overlooking the sea. Over a glass of wine and delicious Greek dishes, we reminisced about our experiences. Thus ended our week of hiking on Nisyros, filled with vivid impressions, colors, scents, and unforgettable memories of one of the most fascinating volcanic islands in Greece.

On the final day of this short tour, we took the express ferry Panagia Spiliani to Kardamena. This route had the advantage of giving us a closer view of the nearby island of Yali, where volcanic pumice is still mined. Upon arrival in the rather unappealing mass-tourism resort of Kardamena, we continued straight by taxi to Kos Airport and flew directly to Athens.