Travel reports from the Nisyros expeditions

This private journey to Kos and Nisyros was a very special exception — one of those rare occasions when we organize a trip for only a few participants. When someone like Eleana travels all the way from Australia, it is both a great honor and a pleasure for us.

Together, we explored the picturesque alleys of Mandraki, visited the impressive Stefanos Crater, and strolled through the traditional villages of Emporio and Nikia. A memorable highlight was our visit to the Monastery of Saint John near Emporio, a peaceful place overlooking the caldera.

Of course, no trip to Nisyros would be complete without a visit to the ancient acropolis of Paliokastro, a fascinating reminder of the island’s long history. At the end of our journey, we explored the Archaeological Museum of Kos and the beautifully preserved Roman Odeon, offering a perfect cultural conclusion to our trip.

It was a wonderful and personal travel experience — and every time I leave Nisyros, I know one thing for sure: I will always come back!

The perfect way to begin a trip to the volcanic island of Nisyros is with a walk through the main village of Mandraki. Wandering through its picturesque alleys, you immediately feel the island’s unique charm – a blend of Greek tranquility, history, and Mediterranean spirit.

A visit to the Archaeological Museum of Nisyros is highly recommended, offering a fascinating introduction to the island’s ancient past. From there, a scenic path leads up to the Paliokastro, the ancient acropolis with its massive walls built from volcanic rock. The views over the sea and the surrounding landscape are breathtaking – a place of peace and energy that leaves a lasting impression.

In the evening, we enjoyed a delicious dinner at Ilikomeni Square, the heart of village life, where locals and visitors meet under the shade of old trees. Our stay with the warm-hearted family of Antonis Nikolitsis and his German wife Sabine was just as delightful – comfortable, authentic, and full of genuine Greek hospitality. It’s a place we’ll certainly return to again in the future.

With our small rental car, we quickly reached the center of the Nisyros caldera, one of the most fascinating volcanic landscapes in Greece. Before descending into the Stefanos Crater, we stopped at a small kiosk to enjoy a refreshing Soumada, the traditional almond-based drink of the Dodecanese.

Fortunately, we were completely alone – no tourist buses disturbed the silence or the mystical atmosphere of the place. At the bottom of the crater, we felt the breath of the Earth: bubbling mud pools, hissing fumaroles, and the sharp smell of sulfur reminded us that this volcano is still alive. It’s best to avoid contact with the gases or your clothes — the sulfur can literally burn holes into the fabric!

After exploring the craters, we drove up to the picturesque mountain village of Nikia, home to the Volcano Museum of Nisyros. Its Ilikiomeni Square is one of the most beautiful village squares in Greece and offers a magnificent view over the caldera. A short walk led us to the Church of Agios Ioannis, nestled within the caldera walls – the perfect way to end an unforgettable day on this extraordinary island.

The small harbor village of Pali on the island of Nisyros also has much to offer. In Roman times, there was a thermal bath here, where today stands the Chapel of Panagia Thermiani. The ancient vaulted structures are still clearly visible, a silent reminder of the island’s long and rich history.

If the Greek state showed more interest in preserving its ancient cultural heritage, this unique bath could one day be restored and reopened as an archaeological site. Unfortunately, not only the ancient thermal springs but also many modern spa resorts in Greece have fallen into decline. A country that fails to use its natural and cultural treasures cannot prosper – and Nisyros is a perfect example of both the potential and the neglect.

Later, we visited the Monastery of Panagia Kera and the village of Emborio, which was severely damaged by an earthquake in the 1950s and is now slowly being restored with EU funding. One of the highlights there is the natural sauna – a small stone chamber along the road where hot volcanic steam rises from the ground. The humidity and heat are so intense that one can only stay inside for a few minutes. It’s a remarkable reminder of the living energy beneath the island.

All across Nisyros, you encounter fumaroles and volcanic vents, constant proof that the island is still very much alive.

Since everything is located so close together, we enjoyed a lovely tour with short walks in Nikia, where we visited the Monastery of Agios Ioannis. Afterwards, we continued to the Monastery of Panagia and later to the Evangelistria Chapel in the mountains, where our hiking routes usually begin. :-)

We spent the last day relaxing and enjoying leisurely walks in Mandraki.

Since our ship from Nisyros arrived early in the morning at Kos Town, we had plenty of time to explore the island’s most important archaeological sites. We began with a visit to the legendary Hippocrates Plane Tree, under which the famous ancient physician is said to have taught his students. From there, we continued to the ancient Agora, where we admired the remains of Roman mosaics, columns, and temples.

Another highlight was the small, theater-like Odeon, beautifully restored and still boasting impressive acoustics. The Archaeological Museum of Kos was especially fascinating, with its outstanding collection of Hellenistic sculptures, Roman mosaics, and artifacts from ancient sanctuaries. Since opening hours often don’t fit well into travel schedules, we were particularly lucky to have the chance to visit.

Later, we enjoyed a relaxed stroll through the old town of Kos, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere. In the evening, we concluded our wonderful journey with a delicious dinner in a traditional taverna – the perfect ending to an unforgettable week exploring the islands of Kos and Nisyros.