Travel Reports from the Santorini Tours

Since 1996, I have been leading travel groups on the fascinating volcanic island of Santorini, and yet each group is a new and unique experience. Luckily, being a tour guide never becomes routine for me!

This time, our group consisted of seven participants – a small, multinational team, including two very friendly guests from the USA. Together with my friend Michael, I arrived on Santorini a few days earlier to prepare everything for the tour. However, the start was not exactly ideal: on April 19, the weather suddenly changed, and we were worried that our hiking trip on Santorini might be dominated by rain.

Until the guests arrived on April 22, it was a little adventure in itself. But exactly when the first tour began, we were rewarded with the most beautiful spring weather I have ever experienced on any of my hiking tours – and it stayed that way until the end of the journey on April 29!

As in previous years, we stayed at the charming Hotel Anemomilos in Oia, run by my friend Spyros Kokkalis. I always appreciate that Spyros keeps improving and modernizing his hotel every few years. Once again, I was impressed by how much more elegant and comfortable the rooms had become.

But at Anemomilos, the rooms are almost a “side issue” – the true highlight is the delicious homemade Greek cuisine, freshly prepared every day by the Kokkalis family in the Taverna Anemomilos. Whether it’s moussaka, fresh fish, or local Santorini wine – you can truly taste Greece at its best here!

I sincerely hope that I will continue to bring many more guests to Santorini in the coming years, to share the beauty and volcanic magic of this extraordinary island.

On April 23, our first hiking stage on Santorini began. Early in the morning, we took the public bus directly from Hotel Anemomilos to Thira (Fira), the lively capital of the island. Even the bus ride offered wonderful views over the vineyards and the Aegean Sea.

Our first highlight was the visit to the Archaeological Museum of Thira, which provides a fascinating insight into the Minoan civilization and the prehistoric culture of Santorini. Particularly impressive are the artifacts from the Bronze Age city of Akrotiri, including elegant pottery, tools, and a small clay house grill that could still be made in the same way today. Equally captivating is the section on the prehistoric trade networks of the Mediterranean, featuring ceramics from Crete, Cyprus, Egypt, and Asia Minor.

Of course, one of the true highlights are the famous wall paintings from Akrotiri, vividly depicting the art and daily life of the Minoan people. At the end of the exhibition, we admired the small golden ram, a masterpiece of Minoan gold craftsmanship.

After the museum visit, we strolled through the old town of Fira, past countless souvenir shops, boutiques, and cafés. Fortunately, no cruise ships had docked that day, so we could enjoy the city in peace. At the Nomikos Conference Center, we paused for a refreshing Frappé while admiring the breathtaking view of the Santorini caldera.

One of our first photo subjects was the church of Agios Georgios, which happened to celebrate its name day that very day. A few years ago, a small “miracle” occurred here – when a worker fell from a great height and survived with only minor injuries.

Our trail continued along the famous caldera path from Fira to Oia, passing luxurious cliffside hotels, some charging up to €1,200 per night! From Imerovigli onward, the landscape became quieter and more natural, with volcanic formations and wildflowers marking our way.

We paused for photos at the small volcano Profitis Ilias, then descended to the cozy Caldera Café for a short rest.

Just before reaching the world-famous village of Oia, we stopped at the picturesque chapel of Zoodochos Pigis – an absolute insider tip for photographers! From there, you have the best panoramic view of Oia and the most spectacular sunset on Santorini – far better than squeezing through the crowds in Oia itself to see the sun set over the sea.

A perfect first day of our Santorini hiking adventure, filled with history, nature, culture, and unforgettable views!

The village of Pyrgos is one of the most beautiful and authentic places on Santorini. Perched picturesquely on a hill in the island’s center, it offers an unrivaled panoramic view over the volcanic landscape. Anyone who truly wants to experience the real Santorini should not miss Pyrgos!

For photographers, Pyrgos is a paradise: narrow, winding alleys, traditional courtyards, charming churches, and typical Cycladic architecture make it a dream location for beautiful images. Especially rewarding is the walk up to the Pyrgos Castle (Kastelli), a medieval fortress that once protected the villagers from pirate raids. Today, there’s a small café at the top offering a breathtaking view across Santorini and its neighboring islands. During our visit, visibility was perfect – we could even see Ios, Anafi, and Thirasia shimmering in the distance.

After exploring the village, we continued our hike toward Emporio. The path first led uphill toward Santorini’s highest peak, before turning right near an old carpenter’s workshop. The signposting was easy to miss, but the small trail running above the courtyard along a stone wall turned out to be one of the most scenic routes of the entire journey: a colorful sea of wildflowers, daisies, and poppies framed our path – a photographer’s delight!

Although the trail was a bit rocky and required careful footing, everyone managed it with ease. Soon, we descended into the valley of Emporio and climbed up again to the medieval Kastelli fortress, which once surrounded and protected the old village. The maze-like alleys were designed to confuse and trap pirates during attacks – an ingenious defensive layout that still fascinates visitors today.

Nowadays, many of these historic houses have been beautifully renovated and turned into holiday homes, cafés, and small galleries. After our walk through the charming Emporio Castle, we enjoyed a relaxing break in a local café, sipping coffee and reflecting on the day. Later, Thomas picked us up with his small charter bus and took us back to Oia, filled with impressions of nature, history, and island life.

Around 1627 BC, one of the most powerful volcanic eruptions in human history took place on the island of Santorini (Thera). The scale of the disaster exceeded anything people of that era had ever experienced. A caldera already existed back then, with small islands in its center – possibly the site of Minoan sanctuaries.

Earthquakes shook the island, buildings collapsed, and soon sulfur fumes filled the air while the sea turned yellow-green – clear signs of increasing volcanic activity. The Minoans, deeply spiritual people, interpreted these as divine warnings.

Cracks opened in the ground, and steam and rocks erupted violently. The explosions grew stronger, and the harbor – once a place of safety – became a death trap as boulders rained down and earthquakes devastated the villages. Desperate inhabitants tried to repair their homes and gather valuables, but the eruption’s fury only increased.

Many attempted to flee to Crete, but the catastrophe was unstoppable. As the magma chamber collapsed, magma met seawater, triggering one of nature’s most destructive reactions.

A colossal steam explosion launched a 20-kilometer-high eruption column of ash and gases into the sky. When it collapsed, pyroclastic flows up to 400°C hot raced across land and sea at speeds of 200 km/h, devastating everything within 100 kilometers. If any Minoans escaped by ship, they were likely caught by the burning ash clouds. No human remains have ever been found.

The eruption covered Santorini with up to 60 meters of pumice and ash, perfectly preserving entire towns beneath it for thousands of years.

Exploring Akrotiri – The “Pompeii of the Aegean”

We then visited the archaeological site of Akrotiri, often called the “Pompeii of the Aegean”. The city, buried under volcanic ash, was astonishingly well preserved. Many multi-story houses still reveal utensils, tools, and even furniture. When archaeologists poured plaster into voids, they discovered the shapes of beds, tables, and staircases.

You can still see the damage from the earthquakes that preceded the eruption – broken walls, shattered staircases, and distorted beams, frozen in time.
Fortunately, the site was not crowded, allowing us to explore and photograph in peace.

The Red Beach and Akrotiri’s volcanic wonders

Next, we hiked to the famous Red Beach (Kokkini Paralia), one of Santorini’s most photogenic places. Its striking red cliffs are remnants of an ancient scoria cone, half of which collapsed into the sea. The upper layers contain solidified lava from a prehistoric lava lake.

Despite a tourist playing loud Sirtaki music, we admired the surreal contrast of colors – red, black, and ochre blending against the turquoise sea.

Two brave travelers, Michael and Elke, even went for a swim in the 18°C chilly water! Caution is advised, however, as rockfall danger from the cliffs is real.

Hike back to Akrotiri – Fossils and volcanic treasures

Our return path led uphill along a steep road toward the modern village of Akrotiri. Along the way, we observed pillow lavas, once formed on the ocean floor and later uplifted by tectonic forces.

As always, my trained eye for geology proved useful – I spotted a giant fossil oyster, a rare and beautiful find!

Further along, traces of ancient hydrothermal vents could be seen – places where quartz crystals and opal had formed under the sea thousands of years ago. Near the village edge, we encountered a spectacular rock wall displaying layers of an underwater mudslide deposit, another geological gem of Santorini.

We ended this eventful day relaxing at the village square of Akrotiri, enjoying refreshments in a small taverna, before Thomas picked us up with his bus and took us back. A perfect conclusion to a day filled with history, science, and the raw power of nature!

The undisputed highlight of every Santorini tour is the boat trip with my friend Sostis, a true hermit who lives on the tiny volcanic island of Palea Kameni in the center of the caldera. With his striking red boat, he has guided many small groups safely across the waters to the volcanic islands of Nea Kameni and Palea Kameni. Each trip is special – but it only happens if he feels well enough to host guests.

This time, he picked us up at the Amoudi Bay below Oia. We could already spot his red boat from the cliffs above – our adventure was about to begin!

Nea Kameni – Exploring the active heart of Santorini

Our first destination was the young island of Nea Kameni, a dramatic volcanic landscape with craters, lava domes, and fumaroles. Fortunately, it was a quiet day, and we had the volcano almost entirely to ourselves.

We hiked past the Daphne craters, the Nautilus dome, and up to the Georgios crater, where active steam vents hissed between the rocks. Around the crater, several monitoring devices and sensors had been set up – clear signs that scientists keep a close watch on Santorini’s volcanic activity.

One fumarole I’ve been observing for years had changed: about seven meters away, a new vent had appeared. Back in 2012, scientists recorded a 9-centimeter uplift of the island due to magma movement beneath the surface. Since then, the system has calmed, though earthquakes continue – mostly near the submarine Kolumbo volcano northeast of Santorini. The next eruption will come someday – but no one knows when or where.

From Nea Kameni’s western ridge, we enjoyed a magnificent view of Palea Kameni and, in the distance, the snow-covered mountains of Crete glimmering on the horizon.

Hot Springs and visit to Sostis’ home on Palea Kameni

Our next stop was a tiny thermal bay between the islands – so small that only Sostis’ red boat could enter. Some of us swam to the warm springs, where the water reached 37–42 °C. In April, the sea was still cool, so the contrast didn’t feel too extreme, but the experience of bathing in a volcano was unforgettable.

A short ride later, we arrived at Palea Kameni, where Platon, Sostis’ large shepherd dog, greeted us with impressive enthusiasm.

Here, in complete solitude, Sostis has built his self-sufficient home: a small house, a picnic shelter, cisterns, animal pens, and gardens where he grows vegetables. He shares the island with his goats, pigs, chickens, and his loyal dog.

We walked along the path to his private cove, known in tourist brochures as the “Hot Springs”, and enjoyed a delicious picnic with Cretan barley rusks (Dagos) topped with tomatoes, onions, capers, and cheese. Sostis treated us to his homemade dessert wine and cheese, both of which are truly exceptional.

Exploring Palea Kameni – Nature, geology, and volcanic life

After lunch, I led a few guests to the deep-green crater lake and then onto the plateau of Palea Kameni, where Sostis cultivates tomatoes, onions, lettuce, potatoes, and herbs. Near a rocky slope, we encountered two mother pigs with dozens of lively piglets – a charming sight amid the black volcanic stones.

Geologically, the island is a treasure trove: rare skarn rocks with garnet crystals can be found here, formed when marble is metamorphosed by magma heat. These rocks were likely pushed to the surface by an ancient volcanic eruption.

Sustainability instead of mass tourism

Palea Kameni remains one of the last untouched places in the Santorini archipelago. I often wonder what will happen when Sostis is no longer here. Will this paradise be opened to mass tourism and lose its magic?

Already, large wooden excursion boats arrive every few minutes, unloading hundreds of tourists who swim briefly to the “Hot Springs” before being called back by the horn.

In that moment, we realized what true luxury means: not rushing through a checklist of attractions, but experiencing Santorini slowly, respectfully, and authentically. With Sostis, we shared something real – a moment of connection with nature, geology, and a way of life that has almost disappeared.

Every euro we spend here helps him maintain and protect his island, ensuring that Palea Kameni remains the peaceful volcanic haven it has always been.

The bus ride up to the acropolis of Ancient Thera was a real adventure! The narrow serpentine road climbed steeply along the cliffs, and our charter bus had to maneuver carefully around the tightest bends – sometimes even reversing. We were all relieved when we finally reached the top – and even happier knowing we wouldn’t have to drive the same road back down!

At the entrance, we bought our tickets and began walking up the historic hill, excavated in the late 19th century by the German archaeologist Friedrich Hiller von Gaertringen. As in many parts of Greece, it was often German archaeologists who helped uncover the ancient heritage of Greece, contributing significantly to the country’s cultural identity and historical pride.

Spring on the mountain – where nature and history meet

Our first stop was the small chapel of Agios Stefanos, whose walls are built with ancient stones from the ruins around it. Nearby, I spotted several wild orchids, including bee orchids (Ophrys) and pyramidal orchids (Anacamptis pyramidalis) – delicate treasures of the Santorini spring flora.

Spring is undoubtedly the best season to explore Ancient Thera. The air is filled with the scent of herbs, and the contrast of green slopes, blue sea, and ancient stones creates an unforgettable atmosphere.

The Sanctuary of Artemidoros – a rock carved with gods

My personal highlight is always the Sanctuary of Artemidoros. The best time to visit is early in the morning, when the light reveals the rock carvings in their full beauty.

The sanctuary features beautifully carved reliefs of Greek gods:

A dolphin for Poseidon, god of the sea,

a lion for Apollo, god of light,

and an eagle for Zeus, king of the gods.

Next to them, one can see the portrait of Artemidoros himself, the founder who immortalized his devotion in stone – a remarkable example of ancient artistry and faith.

The Agora, the theater, and breathtaking island views

Further up, we reached the remains of the Agora, the ancient marketplace. Unfortunately, a few modern workers were busily mowing down the colorful spring flowers, mistaking them for weeds – a somewhat ironic contrast to the beauty of the place. We were lucky to enjoy and photograph the site still surrounded by blossoms.

The ancient theater of Thera, nestled in a natural hollow, offered magnificent views – even of planes flying below us on approach to the Kamari airstrip! The juxtaposition of antiquity and modernity was surreal.

Following the ancient streets, we explored Phoenician ruins, a cistern, and residential structures, all while enjoying panoramic views over Perissa Beach and, in the far distance, the snow-covered Lefka Ori mountains on Crete – a rare sight I had never seen so clearly in over 20 years!

Descent to Perissa – a rewarding finish

We descended along a rocky hiking trail leading down to the beach of Perissa, where we refreshed ourselves with cool drinks and waited for Thomas, who picked us up with our private minibus.

It was a memorable day, blending archaeology, history, and the wild beauty of nature – a perfect reflection of why Santorini is so much more than just sunsets and white houses.

Our free day took us to a very special place – the Plaka Bay near Megalochori. I met my former business partner Tom Pfeiffer, with whom I co-founded the travel company VolcanoDiscovery in 2005. Although we now run our own projects, we still share a deep passion for volcanoes, photography, and geotourism.

The Plaka Bay is a place full of memories. For many years, Tom and I brought our guests here during our hiking tours. Until his passing, Parthenios Gavalas and his wife Katherina welcomed us with true Greek hospitality – serving Santorinian specialties, local wine, and stories about island life.

Sadly, much of that charm has faded. The old spa, chapel, and small guest rooms are slowly decaying, as Parthenios’ nephew Kosmas no longer takes care of them. Yet the hike down to the bay remains one of the most beautiful routes on Santorini, leading through layers of geological history to the island’s oldest volcanic formations.

Hiking through the “Heart of Santorini”

The trail begins above Megalochori and winds down in countless bends. Early on, hikers reach the famous “Heart of Santorini”, a natural window in the rock that perfectly frames the caldera – one of the island’s most photographed spots.

Below lies a small chapel, followed by steep switchbacks leading down through terraces of wild herbs and caper bushes.

At the bottom, we reached another chapel and several barrel-shaped rooms once rented to travelers. Around the corner lie the ruins of a small thermal spa, now long abandoned.

In earlier years, our groups used to clean and restore the area and even bathe in the warm spring water, which flowed from the volcanic rocks into a natural pool. It was rustic, authentic, and unforgettable.

From healing spring to forgotten ruin

Today, little remains of that peaceful retreat. The small stone house where Parthenios and Katherina once welcomed us is now crumbling, its walls cracked, its shade long gone.

Tom and I felt deeply saddened to see how neglect has overtaken this beautiful spot. We’ve often talked about restoring the place – rebuilding the bath, clearing the trail, protecting the site – but it’s impossible without local support.

Sadly, the younger generation often shows little interest in their cultural heritage, focusing instead on quick profit.

Reflections on Santorini’s future

Santorini today stands as both a paradise and a warning. The island’s luxury tourism boom is rapidly transforming it: new hotels rise on every slope, while historic sites and nature fade into the background.

Will even the last quiet bay soon be filled with concrete?
Will Santorini become the cash machine of Greece, drained for short-term profit rather than protected for future generations?

There is no real landscape or environmental protection, and no coherent plan for sustainable tourism. Yet visitors come here for exactly what is being lost: the pristine nature, the volcanic light, the ancient culture, and the sense of peace.

As long as Tom and I can, we’ll keep coming back – with small groups, slowly, respectfully, and mindfully. Because true travel means understanding, preserving, and sharing.